Bouchon by Thomas Keller : Thomas Keller,
chef/proprieter of Napa Valley's French Laundry, is
passionate about bistro cooking. He believes fervently
that the real art of cooking lies in elevating to
excellence the simplest ingredients; that bistro cooking
embodies at once a culinary ethos of generosity,
economy, and simplicity; that the techniques at its
foundation are profound, and the recipes at its heart
have a powerful ability to nourish and please. So
enamored is he of this older, more casual type of
cooking that he opened the restaurant Bouchon, right
next door to the French Laundry, so he could satisfy a
craving for a perfectly made quiche, or a gratineed
onion soup, or a simple but irresistible roasted
chicken. Now Bouchon, the cookbook, embodies this
cuisine in all its sublime simplicity. But let's
begin at the real beginning. For Keller, great cooking
is all about the virtue of process and attention to
detail. Even in the humblest dish, the extra thought is
evident, which is why this food tastes so amazing: The
onions for the onion soup are caramelized for five
hours; lamb cheeks are used for the navarin; basic but
essential refinements every step of the way make for the
cleanest flavors, the brightest vegetables, the perfect
balance--whether of fat to acid for a vinaigrette, of
egg to liquid for a custard, of salt to meat for a duck
confit. Because versatility as a cook is achieved
through learning foundations, Keller and Bouchon
executive chef Jeff Cerciello illuminate all the key
points of technique along the way: how a two-inch ring
makes for a perfect quiche; how to recognize the right
hazelnut brown for a brown butter sauce; how far to
caramelize sugar for different uses. But learning and
refinement aside--oh those recipes! Steamed mussels with
saffron, bourride, trout grenobloise with its parsley,
lemon, and croutons; steak frites, beef bourguignon,
chicken in the pot--all exquisitely crafted. And those
immortal desserts: the tarte Tatin, the chocolate
mousse, the lemon tart, the profiteroles with chocolate
sauce. In Bouchon, you get to experience them in
impeccably realized form. This is a book to cherish,
with its alluring mix of recipes and the author's
knowledge, warmth, and wit: "I find this a hopeful
time for the pig," says Keller about our yearning
for the flavor that has been bred out of pork. So let
your imagination transport you back to the burnished
warmth of an old-fashioned French bistro, pull up a
stool to the zinc bar or slide into a banquette, and
treat yourself to truly great preparations that have not
just withstood the vagaries of fashion, but have
improved with time. Welcome to Bouchon.
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