Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide : "Under
Pressure," writes Harold McGee in his introduction
to this, the first book written in English on cooking
sous vide, "introduces cooks to one of the most
important culinary innovations of modern times." An
uncommonly grand claim coming from so precise a
scientist and writer, but such is the power of this
controversial method. "Thomas Keller and his
chefs," McGee continues, "illustrate the
powers of precision heating with dozens of dishes that
wouldn't be as fine, or even conceivable, without
it." Sous vide method comprises a group of
techniques that allows the cook to realize flavors and
textures that no other cooking method can. By sealing
food in plastic and submerging it at exact temperatures
for minutes or for days-food that is traditionally
braised, sauteed, roasted, or poached-we can attain
astonishing results. The tough cuts of meat we once
braised in simmering stock can now be cooked sous vide
to a medium-rare pink, juicy and meltingly tender. Lamb
loin, veal tenderloin, and other larger cuts of meat,
difficult to cook evenly, emerge uniform throughout.
Delicate fish is enhanced and the margin of error
reduced. Vegetables and fruits, cooked in an oxygen-free
environment, remain vividly colored. And, because the
food is sealed in plastic, its flavor is never lost to
the cooking water or the atmosphere. Carrots taste more
like carrots, apples more like apples. Small amounts of
herbs and other aromatics can have dramatic effects.
Cold techniques are valuable as well. Marinades used
with meats "en sous vide "are powerfully
effective. Various fruits and vegetables, such as
melons, cucumbers, and pineapple, become new when
compressed. "Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide
"is an invaluable contribution to our culinary
world at a time of unprecedented interest in food and
cooking, both in the restaurant kitchen and at home. The
most critical aspect of sous vide lies in discovering
what combination of time and temperature achieves the
most sublime results. The answers, as discovered and
practiced during the past decade by the chefs of The
French Laundry and per se, two of the most respected
restaurants in the world, are all here, within the
innovative recipes from Keller's landmark restaurants.
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