Beyond the Great Wall : In the West, when we
think about food in China, what usually comes to mind
are the signature dishes of Beijing, Hong Kong,
Shanghai. But beyond these urbanized eastern areas lies
the other China: the high open spaces and sacred places
of Tibet, the Silk Road oases of Xinjiang and Qinghai,
the steppelands of Inner Mongolia, and the steeply
terraced hills of Yunnan and Guizhou. The people who
live in these regions--Tibetans, Mongols, Uighurs, Iiao,
Hui, Dong, Yi, Da, and others--are culturally distinct,
with their own history and culinary traditions. In
"Beyond the Great Wall," Jeffrey Alford and
Naomi Duguid--who met and fell in love as young
travelers in Tibet--bring home the enticing flavors of
these outlying areas of China. This eye-opening
collection of magnificent photos, delectable home-style
recipes, and inviting stories of people and places is a
journey into a fascinating area of the world. China has
gradually opened its more remote regions to foreign
travel over the last twenty-five years. And in that
period, Jeffrey and Naomi have traveled and eaten and
photographed in mountain villages and border towns, in
nomad yurts, in oases along the Silk Road, in local
markets. They've tasted satisfying and delicious
dishes at family meals and at small restaurants (that
are in fact household kitchens putting out a menu).
They've learned techniques from home cooks and
market vendors: to shape noodles quickly and easily, to
make warming family soups, easy stir-fries, succulent
"pulaos," and aromatic grilled kebabs. Food
is so much a part of place, and this family-style food
is extraordinarily good. Like the traditional regional
cooking of rural France and Italy, it is comfortfood,
with direct flavors that speak to the heart and simple
ingredients treated with respect. There are
cumin-scented chicken kebabs; pea tendrils dressed with
sesame oil and dark vinegar; lamb patties with chopped
green herbs; slices of spice-rubbed roast pork; enticing
salsas and condiments; and succulent noodles of many
kinds, served in aromatic broth or dressed wth lively
sauces. Some of this food comes from Central Asian
culinary tradition, with its pulaos, flatbreads, and
kebabs. Uighur nans and Tibetan momos remind us that the
Indian Subcontinent is just across the Himalaya. Other
dishes, especially those from the peoples of southern
Yunnan and Guizhou, are close counsins of the Southeast
Asian foods that Jeffrey and Naomi introduced us to in
the influential Hot Sour Salty Sweet. These rich
culinary cultures reflect not only layers of flavor, but
also layers of history. Naomi and Jeffrey here document
the traditions of the people living beyond the Great
Wall at a time when these are threatened by the fast
pace of change in modern China. And in "Beyond the
Great Wall" the authors celebrate that other China,
its diverse cultures, appealing food traditions, and
vibrant daily life, with the passion and color it deserves.